Fleas are a parasite and must have blood to reproduce.All fleas go through a complete metamorphosis to develop.
Egg – 1/50”, it takes 1-6 days to hatch
Larva – 1/5”, they avoid sunlight, and burrow into the nap of the carpet feeding on organic debris and adult flea fecal matter. It takes 5-11 days before pupation
Pupa (Cocoon) – 1/5”, this is the protected stage of flea development. Once in the cacoon the flea is protected from chemicals, dessicants, etc.It can take as little as 5 days for the flea to develop, however, the flea can remain in the pupa for a year or longer in absence of a host. Vibration is the main stimulus that causes the flea to emerge
Adult - fleas are capable of producing eggs for 90 days after emergence as an adult
Once the flea emerges from the cocoon it does not have to take a blood meal immediately. Once the adult flea has located a host it initiates feeding within seconds, and will mate within 24 hours.A female adult flea will lay about 1 egg per hour. In ideal conditions the flea can complete its life cycle in as little as 12-14 days.
INSPECTION
Areas to inspect for signs of a flea infestation are typically pets, pet bedding, and flooring.If unsure, do the “white sock test”.Adult fleas are drawn to lighter colors, so bright white socks are usually a good indicator.Put on the clean white socks and walk throughout the house.Adult fleas will jump on the socks making them easier to see and alerting you to the presence of fleas in the home.Another good indicator is adult flea fecal matter aka “flea dirt”.These tiny particles look like dirt but are typically located near an area of infestation on the pet and also on pet bedding.
PREPARATION
Before you treat your pet: if you are going to apply a topical flea treatment (Frontline™, Advantage™, etc.) and need to bathe the animal, do so before you apply the treatment.If you shampoo your pet, allow 48-72 hours before application.The reason being is that topical treatments spread through the animal’s body oils.Shampoos break down the pets body oils just as it does humans.Application before 48 hours may result in the product not spreading properly and can cause it to have limited/no effectiveness.Once the treatment has been applied DO NOT SHAMPOO your pet again for 30 days.Some topicals are water-resistant, NONE are shampoo-resistant.Also, frequent washing is unhealthy for an animal’s skin and can exacerbate itching problems.
Before you treat your home: VACUUM THOROUGHLY.If it normally takes 30 minutes to vacuum, take an hour.Cat owners should also vacuum any areas above the floor the cat likes to go (window sills, bookshelves, etc.).After the first vacuuming, dispose of the contents. For abag vacuum cleaner, remove the bag and dispose of it in a trash can OUTSIDE the home.For bagless vacuum cleaners, dump the canister into an OUTSIDE trash can, and then wash the canister out with hot water before placing it back on the vacuum.Bed clothes and pet bedding can be washed in HOT water to kill any stages of the flea that may be present.
Before you treat the yard: Mow the yard.If this has been done recently, or you have a service that mows, rake, weed, do whatever you can to create as much vibration as possible before treatment.
TREATMENT
1)Indoors: treat all surfaces of the floor (carpet, tile, wood, EVERYTHING).This includes rooms where you/the pet may not frequently go. Remember, the larval stage crawls through the carpet.That includes under doors, furniture, etc.Keep everyone (people and pets) off treated areas until they dry completely.Once dry it is safe for everyone to return.
2)Outdoors: treat all grass and soil areas of the yard.Fleas will reside in high traffic areas for easy access to hosts, but can be dropped anywhere.The more thorough you are, the less places a flea can safely hide.
FOLLOW-UP
Vacuum once a day, every day, for at least 10-14 days after treatment.You do not have to dispose of the bag.This vacuuming is strictly to create vibration.The more you vacuum, the more you will cause fleas to emerge from their cocoons and into the chemical you have applied.This will result in more effectiveness from fewer treatments.If you are having a severe infestation, retreatments can be made in as little 10 to 14 days.Ideally, you should treat every 30 days until the fleas are under control.
PREVENTION
There isn’t much available in the way of flea prevention.There are boric acid products for indoor carpeted areas.Generally maintaining your pet’s flea treatments monthly, and performing maintenance treatments to the yard every 2-3 months will help dramatically.Applying IGRegulatorTMevery 6 months will help to minimize future infestations. Keeping foreign hosts (squirrels, possums, raccoons, etc.) out of the yard will help avoid bringing fleas in from outside the yard.
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS
Precor 2000™ – aerosol (indoor only)
Ultracide™ – aerosol (indoor only)
Demize EC™ – concentrate (indoor only)
Conquer™ – concentrate (indoor/outdoor)
Permethrin SFR™ – concentrate (indoor/outdoor)
Cyonara Lawn & Garden™ – ready to spray (outdoor only)
Cyonara LP™ – granular (outdoor only)
Bifen I/T™ – concentrate (outdoor only)
I.G.Regulator™ – growth regulator concentrate
Flea Stoppers™ – powder (carpeted areas only)
Prefurred™ - topical (pets only)
Frontline Plus™ - topical (pets only)
Flea, Tick & Mange Dip™ - topical (dogs only)
GUARANTEE
These chemicals are some of the most effective insect control products available to the public and they are guaranteed to contain the chemicals stated on the label.The effectiveness of the chemicals depends on the accuracy of application, sanitation, and extent of initial infestation.These instructions are of a general and educational nature only.For specific instructions on how to mix and apply insecticides, always consult the product label.The above products are distributed by Solutions Stores, Inc. For more information contact us at any one of our locations or online at: askapro@solutionsstores.com.